1.
My puppy is biting too hard. Is this normal? How do I stop it?
Tripp and Chip demonstrate how to perform this procedure.
Often a puppy will
chew too hard on fingers and toes, or any other exposed body parts.
Don’t worry. This is completely normal. (It is often mistaken for aggressive
behavior).
When a puppy is
in the pack, he will chew on his litter mates. This is a form of play.
His mouth is like our hands. Puppies do not experience the same pain
we feel. They have fewer nerve endings in their skin. To chew on your
hands is a sign of endearment.
Stopping this habit
is extremely easy – as long as you follow these directions exactly.
I have tried many tactics, but none even came close to working as well
as this. It will work for the children, too, even if you are the only
one giving the lesson. This will take place in about five minutes
on one particular day. You will probably never need to do it again.
You are going to
play the game with him. Do not scold or punish him. Just play the game.
Here’s how:
While he is biting
your hands, use your thumb and index finger to force his upper lips
up against the sharp canines. (The area between your thumb and finger
will rest on his nose). Give a squeeze just hard enough to make him
yelp. Once you let go, he will probably charge you for more. Give it
to him. This time, squeeze just a little harder, and hold the pressure
for about three seconds of yelping. He will either give you a disgusted
look and disappear behind the sofa, or charge you again. He may appear
madder than heck, and growl as he’s charging. This should not be
taken as aggression. Remember, this whole thing is a game to him.
Each time he returns for more, let him have it again. Extend the hold
time for two seconds every round. Do this for as many times as he returns
and bites too hard. (If the biting becomes gentle mouthing, there is
no need to continue). Do not quit in the middle of the game. Keep
playing until he learns he can’t win. Otherwise, he wins by default,
and you’ve created a monster. Eventually, he will go off and pout. Don’t
go after him. Leave him alone. He will come back in a better mood after
a good nap. (Remember how you felt the first time you lost pitifully
in Monopoly?)
If you find it necessary
to do this over and over, it means you are being too soft on him. (It
should only take one five minute session to teach him). Remember,
the whole idea is to convince him he can’t win at this game.
Do not hold his
mouth closed! This will encourage him.
This provides
protection to your pet, so that he can return home after being lost
or stolen.
A microchip is a piece of silicon, about the size of a grain of rice.
It is implanted hypodermically under the skin, just above the shoulder
blades. (This is usually a painless procedure). The chip does
not transmit a frequency, but will transpond a unique number when queried
by a microchip scanner. This number can then be checked against a worldwide
database, which provides the contact information that you give the recording
agency. (There is a one time recording fee of $15.00 that you will pay
directly to the recording agency). Nearly all vets, dog pounds, and
humane societies have the microchip scanners, and can therefore get
your pup home to you.
You will not know the chip is in place. It has not been known to cause
infections or other complications. The chips have been credited with
literally thousands of pets going home. Do
not rely on dog tags alone - these are usually lost just
after your pet disappears. Only the microchip can greatly increase the
chance of return. You can lose your pet in nearly any country, and have
the same protection. (Being lost is the number
one cause of death in pets). The microchip should be installed
by a trained professional, such as your breeder or vet.
NO.I know many books and breeders swear by this method, but after
years of trials I am opposed to it with little exception. Crate training
takes advantage of the Lab’s natural tendency to use the bathroom in
a place other than what they consider their immediate living environment.
Supposedly, you come home and let him out, and he immediately dashes
for the bushes. He therefore gets used to going in the correct place,
and it becomes habit. Good in theory. There are a couple of drawbacks
that make other methods more attractive.
The primary goal
in “housebreaking” is to establish good communication between Master
and Puppy. When you crate a puppy, he barks almost continuously for
a week, unless he is sleeping. (Go to the cage to comfort him, and he
will bark for eternity). How do you know the difference in the bark
that says, “Let me out of this cell!” and the one that says, “I’ve really
gotta go!” You miss the visual cues that tell you he needs to go. Another
drawback is that all puppies will eventually get to the point where
they can no longer hold it. (Remember, puppies also get upset bowels
from time to time). When this happens, they are forced to defecate in
their crate. They get it on their coats, and are forced to smell it.
You have just trained your puppy – in reverse! Now he has no problem
going – anywhere!
What about that
claim that the Lab likes his kennel? I have heard people say, “He goes
there anytime he gets stressed – he really likes it!”Of course the Lab goes there – he finally got used to it. Just
like a hostage gets used to his closet. Let’s take a look at this from
a different perspective.If
your child spent excessive amounts of time in small dark rooms, you
may choose to take him to a head doctor. However, if you had locked
your child in this type of environment during infancy, he would have
grown accustomed to it. Would you consider this healthy?
I know you may have
friends that swear by this method. I also remember when everyone swore
by Asbestos tablecloths. For alternative methods, see “What is the
best way to housebreak my puppy?” >>go
If you are considering
crate training, please see “Is crate training a good idea?”
Let me offer an
alternative method. I have been through many methods over the years,
dozens of times. Here is the best one I’ve found.
Keep to the same
strict diet that your pup was on when you picked him up. Food changes,
even a morsel of a doggie treat, will cause diarrhea. Use the same
food your pup was on. Do not switch foods during training. Do not give
any other food or treat at all.
First, remember
the primary goal is to establish a communication between yourself and
your new pup. You need to speak the same language. The more you can
see each other, the better, as you will start off with visual cues.
Place your pup in an area where you can observe him. I like to baby
gate off a room with a hard floor, such as the kitchen. When he begins
to act strangely, (quick movements, excessive sniffing in different
locations, etc) I know he is ready to explode. Grab him, and get him
outside. Leave him at least five minutes. If it was a false alarm, no
big deal. Bring him back inside, and keep watching him out of the corner
of your eye. (Remember watching the children?) Repeat this process as
necessary.
Let’s say that you
missed his cues. (You may swear he didn’t even give one, but he really
did). He went to the bathroom on the floor. Its O.K. Chances are he
went to the far end of the room to go, and he won’t be wearing it. The
idea is to let him put distance between himself and the lovely gift
he left for you. Otherwise, he gets used to having it in his environment,
and then you have a challenge! Since you have a hard surfaced floor,
a few paper towels and some disinfectant will take care of the problem.
(Don’t worry – it’s only temporary). Don’t bother fussing at him at
this point. He won’t understand.
If you see him in
the act of going, make a loud guttural noise that will scare the hair
off him. (Pretend you just found your little brother spray-painting
your first car). This will make his muscles tighten, and he will stop
for a few seconds. Get him outside, and leave him until he goes, even
if it’s fifteen minutes. (Unless he finished in the house). Remember,
puppies get bacterial infections just like babies, and there may be
a time when he has to go several times in a row, or even has diarrhea.
He will have very little control, and very little warning. Just ride
through these times. Your pup will be housebroken within a week, which
is a lot better than a baby! Remember not to hold it against him if
there was no one to let him out when you were gone, and he had an accident.
If you come inside after an unsuccessful attempt and then he decides
to unload, that means you did not stay out long enough.
For the occasional
puppy that just doesn’t get it by his tenth week, you may need to use
some negative reinforcement. (For those really frustrated few, please
put the baseball bat down). Just a simple fussing will do. Let him know
you are displeased, but don’t rub his nose in it. Just take him to the
vicinity. He will know it’s there better than you. You know you have
succeeded in getting through when he quits smiling, and his tail quits
wagging. This aggressive approach should be reserved for puppies with
normal bowel movements, and no diarrhea.
5.
Is it acceptable to leave my Lab crated while I go to work?
No. I know you may
have friends that do this, and they may even talk about how much their
Lab loves his crate. There are even books that promote this. That is
simple justification for those desiring a Lab, but unable to properly
care for one.
Labs were bred to
be active dogs. Crating leads to a sedentary lifestyle that is extremely
unhealthy, both physically and mentally. You should be able to trust
your Lab with the run of your house while you are gone. Train him early,
put up with a few chewed items, and you will have an actual family member
– not a parrot in a cage.
If you are crating
your Labrador, have yourself caned and seek forgiveness. (I’m just joking
about seeking forgiveness, but please get him out of the crate!).
6. Will my dog come
with AKC papers?
All
pups are issued with AKC limited registration papers, unless otherwise
indicated. This means that your dog will be AKC registered, but any
pups your dog has will not be eligible for AKC papers. (In some cases,
we will change the limited status to a full registration in the future.
This is done through our lease back program).
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Not actual size 